Even though it was the beginning of the Antarctic summer we had to put on our winter jackets and pants.
The ship provided boots that were washed and dried between each landing.
This was to minimize the transfer of undesirable organisms (bacteria, seeds, etc.) between the ship and between places we visited.
We would board the PolarCirkel® boats and head for shore.
Their design resembles a Zodiac but with a hard shell.
The boats could carry eight passengers with a crew of one.
It could be a wild ride.
Disembarking and reboarding at the shore was easy.
A typical landing spot.
At every landing the crew took supplies including tents, food, blankets, etc.
This was just in case the weather changed and we would not be able to return to the ship as planned.
It didn't happen to us but on an earlier trip some passengers had a very wild windy 10 hour delay.
Half moon island
We cruised past Argentina's Camara base
And went ashore nearby where we saw our first penguins close up.
A link at the bottom of this page will take you to pictures of them.
Deception Island
The navigable entrance to the caldera is only 330 ft (100 m ) wide.
As we entered we saw this sailboat.
We don't know if it carried researchers or tourists.
Whaling Station Hektor 1912-1931 and WW II British Base B were located on the island's central bay.
Both were destroyed by a mudslide during a volcanic eruption between 1967 and 1969.
Cullerville Island
One of the most picturesque of our landings with its ice filled bay and the Gentoo penguin colony.
We passed the Chilean base Gonzalez Vedelia on the Antarctic mainland at Waterboat point.
One of the passengers on the ship became seriously ill when we were about as far south as was planned for this trip.
The only possibility for evacuation was an airstrip at a Chilean base.
That base was 15 hours north, so the captain ordered the ship to come about and head for it.
As we were making our way there we met our sister ship the Nordnorge.
The captain knew that we were going to beat the plane to the base so he was able to stop briefly.
That permitted the transfer of some essentials that were in short supply on board our ship.
King George Island
Here there are bases for Argentina, Brazil, Chile, China, Korea, Peru, Poland, Russia, and the UK .
And the reason for our visit, the airstrip from which the passenger would be flown to Chile for treatment.
In the distance we could see that the base was much larger than any other that we saw on the trip.
But when compared to it's setting, it was tiny.
Even in this collection of bases it is hard to imagine spending months in the dark frigid winter.
Two of the polarCirkel boats were launched, one for the patient the other to assist if required.
This is the plane that was chartered to transport the patient back to Chile for treatment.
Several days later we were told that his treatment was going well and he was expected to make a full recovery.
However, he may have a setback when he is presented with the bill for the flight and 50,000 liters of fuel the ship used for his evacuation.
Despite appearances the plane is not on the runway, it was doing a flyby and so it appears larger than if it were.
While we were there a huge transport plane also came in carrying another group who would board their ship here.
You can see the effect of a crosswind both in the dust kicked up and the alignment of its wings.
This is the Russian Orthodox Trinity Church at the Bellingshausen Station.
If you look closely at this panorama of the base you can see it near the right end of the picture.
Arctowski Research Station
Located on King George Island well south of the cluster of stations and airstrip.
Here we had the opportunity to meet some of the researchers and see what an active research station was like.
They have a sign post just to remind them of how far they are from anything.
Remnants of whaling that once took place here.
Inside the station we had the chance to talk with some of the researchers and support personnel.
Most of the investigations are related to the marine life in the area.
The sailboat in the first picture of the station is their research vessel.
The pictures on the wall are of the teams that have over wintered at the station.
It is a Polish station so a picture of the only Polish pope, John Paul II, is prominently displayed.
Lemarie channel
800 m wide and 7 Km long
Just try to imagine that you are the first explorer entering the channel in a ship powered only by the wind.
You have no idea if it is blocked with ice so that you can't get through to the other end, or even if it is open at the other end.
Petermann Island
Here we saw Adelie and Gentoo penguins and Cormorants and their young.
Proof that we were actually in Antarctica.
Port Lockroy Base
This station is maintained as a museum during the summer months.
They have a post office and gift shop operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust.
Income helps maintain this and other historic sites in Antarctica.
An area had been restricted so penguins can be studied free of the interference of tourists or station residents not directly involved in the study.
The penguins seem to be doing better in the tourist area possibly because there are fewer skuas.
For pictures showing why that is important see the link to Penguins and other wildlife at the bottom of the page.
Outside we saw these sleds once used by explorers at the station.
Inside the living quarters were small but looked reasonably comfortable.
Food preparation and cleanup area.
There was a good supply of Marmite. "You love it or you hate it." is the company's motto.
I haven't had Marmite but have tasted the Australian variety, Vegemite.
It has the consistency of peanut butter though not quite as sticky and tastes something like very strong, very salty soy sauce.
I am afraid I would be in the hate it category.
Alcohol in various forms as well as tobacco products had been available at the bar.
Part of the station was used for meteorological and other studies and a radio room to keep in touch with the outside world.
Because the staff at this base had no way to do their laundry we "paid" for our visit by doing it for them on the ship.
We donated some fresh fruit to them as well.
Almirante Brown
This was our last stop but the first on the actual continent of Antarctica.
The others had all been on islands along the peninsula.
This base is located in Paradise Harbor
It was an Argentinean station but hasn't been used on a regular basis since 1984 when it was burned down.
The story we were told was that when the ship arrived for the annual crew rotation the year before, a replacement doctor was not on board.
He didn't like it but the station's doctor agreed to stay for another year.
When the ship showed up the following year there was again no replacement.
The doctor went a little mad and set the place on fire.
Some of the buildings have been rebuilt or survived the fire.
Some of us climbed to the top of the rocky peak beside the base.
From the top you could see the bay, glaciers, and mountains beyond.
To get back down you just sat down and slid.
The comment was made that when you went up you were old but, coming back down you were a kid.
Yes, we really were there.
Swimmers
We didn't know that swimming was an option so we hadn't taken our swimsuits ashore with us.
Because it was salt water with ice floating in it the temperature was actually a few degrees below freezing.
Maybe I am just as glad that I didn't bring my suit.
The Jacuzzis on the ship were just fine.
